This is our third visit to Zion. To enter we joined the line to drive through the long, dark mile-long tunnel that was blasted out of the rock by the CCC.
On one previous trip our hike was vertical, climbing up Angel’s Landing. This time we hiked horizontally and got credit for a 10K volksmarch.
First some observations. With this being the 100th anniversary of the national parks and also being fall, the parks are crowded. Bryce had limited parking but was less crowded than Zion. It has an optional shuttle taking visitors to viewpoints and hiking spots. To get into Zion you must ride a shuttle, actually two. We parked in the nearby town of Springdale, which has free parking everywhere. That shuttle took us to the entrance of the park where we boarded another shuttle to all the stops throughout the park.
English is definitely the minority language at this time. We heard mostly German but also Eastern European, Asian and Aussie/Brit accented English. Along with us “elders” there are many families and groups of young people. It is wonderful to see all these people enjoying this unique landscape.
A major difference between these two spectacular parks is that to see Bryce you have to look or hike down. To explore Zion, you walk along the canyon or look up a couple thousand feet to the summits of the peaks.
In fact the Paiutes, early inhabitants of the area, used the word “mukuntuweap” or straight-up land to describe it. Zion’s canyons were carved by the Virgin River on whose banks trees and flowers flourish.
Our first hike was up to the Emerald Lakes created by runoff from powerful if infrequent rainfall. We were cooled by the mist from the dripping water.
Then we walked along the Riverwalk following the Virgin up to the Narrows. Jerry hiked the Narrows back in the nineties balancing over the rocks in the cold water. This time we just photographed and left the hiking to others.
Rock Squirrels are so tame they expect to be fed but we did the right thing and took pictures instead.
These reeds, which require a wet environment, thrive along the edge of the river which overflows during heavy rain and melting snow. This small area is actually a swamp but no alligators.
Our third walk followed the river up to Pa’rus. We crossed several bridges spanning the Virgin.
We visited the Zion Human History Museum where we saw artifacts from the Paiutes, considered the first inhabitants of the land. The next group to have a major impact were the Mormons who settled the land and created the vast farms and towns nearby.
Outside the museum, the rangers had telescopes focused on a young condor. He/she is the offspring of a resident pair. Unfortunately, the male died of lead poisoning ingested from a shot animal he was eating. Though no photo to prove it, it was a thrill to see this bird, the product of a successful rescue program that brought the condor population back from about twenty to about four hundred breeding pair.
After a delicious dinner at Oscar’s, we went to a ranger program back in the park. This ranger is new to Zion and in love with the geology, plants and animals. He showed his enjoyment and added to our knowledge with his adaptations of lyrics sung to classic rock melodies.
The next morning we visited a separate part of the park, Kolob Canyons. The canyons are a small version of Zion, with all the types of formations packed closer together.
We took a hike to better view the formations around us. This place should have been the inspiration for the song “On a Clear Day” because the lyrics so fit and on a clear day you can see the north rim of the Grand Canyon in the distance.
Flowers bloom against a backdrop of lichen.
The leaves are just beginning to turn.
After visiting Kolob we are heading home to enjoy great memories and thousands of photos.
If you remember that line, you lived in San Francisco in the 60s. It was a slogan for Pan Am telling you about Flight 1 originating in San Francisco and going around the world. Pan Am is gone but the slogan put the travel bug in us and we have been working on doing it ever since.
Monday, 19 September 2016
Thursday, 15 September 2016
Bryce National Park: One of nature’s greatest wonders
This is our third time in Bryce. The first, back in our fit days, was part of a bicycle ride in Southwest Utah when we did some more serious hiking. The second was during an early spring snow fall when the roads were blocked and we parked our RV in a parking lot. As soon as the gates opened we ran from the car to overlooks, trying not to freeze but to capture the beauty of snow on red sandstone formations. This time was perfect weather and we took advantage of it to do some pleasant hiking.
Our first foray was a short hike up the Bristlecone Loop. The key tree has died but the view around it is spectacular.
A side-point. The thesaurus on this computer has eight synonyms for spectacular. Rather than vary the adjectives just insert your own superlatives to describe any view mentioned in this blog section. Thank you.
Following the guidance of a park ranger, we took a four-mile plus hike from Sunrise Point through the Queen’s Garden and on the Navaho Trail to Wall Street. We ended the hike at Sunset Point then walked back to Sunrise. Starting at over 8000 feet in elevation we walked from the rim down into the canyon where we were immersed in sandstone walls, windows, tunnels and hoodoos. Each turn on the trail was more (insert your own superlative) and photogenic. Join us in our walk:
Anna Lee just fit through the tunnel.
The window frames more formations and trees,
The walls surround us.
The hoodoos seem to stand tall next to the trail though they are at constant risk of further erosion.
Queen Victoria seems to proudly scan her empire.
Wall Street was crowded with climbers.
This is where we headed
and this is the view of where we came from.
Anna Lee was proud to climb to the top of the switchbacks.
Our last stop in the park gave us this view of Fairyland Canyon.
Then we went for a rewarding dessert after our strenuously fantastic day.
We are now leaving Bryce and heading south to Zion National Park. Don't worry, we did not lose the RV.
Our first foray was a short hike up the Bristlecone Loop. The key tree has died but the view around it is spectacular.
A side-point. The thesaurus on this computer has eight synonyms for spectacular. Rather than vary the adjectives just insert your own superlatives to describe any view mentioned in this blog section. Thank you.
Following the guidance of a park ranger, we took a four-mile plus hike from Sunrise Point through the Queen’s Garden and on the Navaho Trail to Wall Street. We ended the hike at Sunset Point then walked back to Sunrise. Starting at over 8000 feet in elevation we walked from the rim down into the canyon where we were immersed in sandstone walls, windows, tunnels and hoodoos. Each turn on the trail was more (insert your own superlative) and photogenic. Join us in our walk:
Anna Lee just fit through the tunnel.
The window frames more formations and trees,
The walls surround us.
The hoodoos seem to stand tall next to the trail though they are at constant risk of further erosion.
Queen Victoria seems to proudly scan her empire.
Wall Street was crowded with climbers.
This is where we headed
and this is the view of where we came from.
Anna Lee was proud to climb to the top of the switchbacks.
Our last stop in the park gave us this view of Fairyland Canyon.
Then we went for a rewarding dessert after our strenuously fantastic day.
We are now leaving Bryce and heading south to Zion National Park. Don't worry, we did not lose the RV.
Tuesday, 13 September 2016
Anasazi State Park Museum
We planned to follow more trails deep into these parks but the weather changed our mind. We had a bit of lightening and thunder, rain and wind and these pea-size hail stones as we drove along.
The rain brought out even more color in the rocks.
Instead of driving muddy roads, we spent time at the Anasazi State Park Museum. This small museum explains the creation myth of the Anasazi, a Navaho word for ancient enemy, now used as a collective name for the Native Americans who began living here about 1100 A.D. Many of them believe that man came up from another world climbing a ladder through a hole called a Sipapu and migrated in the four directions living on and developing the land as they were instructed to do.
The University of Utah has excavated this are called the Coombs site and has some excellent artifacts on display in the museum. This spear point is the oldest known artifact found in this area.
This ancestral pueblo McElmo black-on-white mug dates back over 500 years.
After viewing a movie about the Hopi culture, we went to see the ruins. The people who lived here were about 5"4", just like Anna Lee. They had to duck down to enter the rooms.
The buildings represent sipapu with ladders through the roof reminding the people of their origins.
Both living quarters and store rooms make up the L-shaped buildings.
The walls were made in two types, Kayenta with slabs of shale and jacal with mud plastered onto pole frames.
While some buildings were erected above ground, there were others that were excavated so that the roof was at ground level. These were easier to heat and cool therefore considered more comfortable to live in.
This hawk is now in residence at the museum and is being trained to hunt.
The rain continued to put on a spectacular show and continued into the evening.
The rain brought out even more color in the rocks.
Instead of driving muddy roads, we spent time at the Anasazi State Park Museum. This small museum explains the creation myth of the Anasazi, a Navaho word for ancient enemy, now used as a collective name for the Native Americans who began living here about 1100 A.D. Many of them believe that man came up from another world climbing a ladder through a hole called a Sipapu and migrated in the four directions living on and developing the land as they were instructed to do.
The University of Utah has excavated this are called the Coombs site and has some excellent artifacts on display in the museum. This spear point is the oldest known artifact found in this area.
This ancestral pueblo McElmo black-on-white mug dates back over 500 years.
After viewing a movie about the Hopi culture, we went to see the ruins. The people who lived here were about 5"4", just like Anna Lee. They had to duck down to enter the rooms.
The buildings represent sipapu with ladders through the roof reminding the people of their origins.
Both living quarters and store rooms make up the L-shaped buildings.
The walls were made in two types, Kayenta with slabs of shale and jacal with mud plastered onto pole frames.
This hawk is now in residence at the museum and is being trained to hunt.
The rain continued to put on a spectacular show and continued into the evening.
Monday, 12 September 2016
Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument
A big name for a huge (1.9 million acres) and gorgeous park accessible primarily by foot. By driving paved and gravel roads we did find places we could enjoy and took wonderful photos. Established by Presidential Proclamation by Pres. Clinton, this park is celebrating its 20th anniversary. Some of the formations look like tall cakes topped with frosting just waiting for the party to begin (yes, it is easy to anthropomorphize these amazing formations.)
We walked up to Mossy Cave following alongside Tropic Ditch. The ditch was dug by hand by early Mormon settlers in 1892. It follows the natural course of dry wash Water Canyon.
Mossy Cave Falls cascades behind us. The cave was just a dark cave.
This striated rock cleaved cleanly in two.
Jerry has been wanting to photograph a slot canyon but usually the hikes are too arduous for either of us. This one was nice and easy and the sun cooperated in glowing onto the steep rock sides.
Anna Lee made it over the rocks.
The road to this area had features that were hard to describe but beautiful to see.
We bumped and bounced and avoided traffic obstacles
along the ten-mile road to find Grosvenor Arch. It was well worth the shaking ride.
We walked up to Mossy Cave following alongside Tropic Ditch. The ditch was dug by hand by early Mormon settlers in 1892. It follows the natural course of dry wash Water Canyon.
Mossy Cave Falls cascades behind us. The cave was just a dark cave.
This striated rock cleaved cleanly in two.
Jerry has been wanting to photograph a slot canyon but usually the hikes are too arduous for either of us. This one was nice and easy and the sun cooperated in glowing onto the steep rock sides.
Anna Lee made it over the rocks.
The road to this area had features that were hard to describe but beautiful to see.
We bumped and bounced and avoided traffic obstacles
along the ten-mile road to find Grosvenor Arch. It was well worth the shaking ride.
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