Monday, 16 March 2020

The Blue Lagoon and Farewell for Now


We have been traveling on a large, and comfortable bus, with 21 other travels, mostly our age but a few younger.  Everyone has been very cordial and we have enjoyed conversations with people from other countries.  One lady from the Netherlands is in the Animal Party (essentially a party focused on climate change through showing what is happening to animals.  A man born in South Africa and now also living in the Netherlands kept saying the economy was good even if Trump was a joke.

We have been at four hotels, each including dinner and breakfast.  The food has been excellent.

Now for our last day on our way back to Reykjavik we took a nice dip in the Blue Lagoon.  First we had some photo stops to see more glaciers and rock formations.

 and to have a bite to eat and do some shopping.  We failed at the shopping because we either didn’t find anything we “needed” or because so much was made in the EU or China not Iceland.  The food was wonderful.

The resident artist who adorned this fence on the side of the highway is busting with humor.  Additions have been added by art aficionados.  You may have to look closely to see what is on the fence.
Eyjafjallajokull Glacier is the end of our glacier photo ops.
We drove through farm land.  A wealthy philanthropist started a fund to raise money for cancer patients.  He provides colored hay bale wraps to farmers who donate money.  Green is for men, pink, women, and yellow, children.  From all the bales we saw the farmers are quite generous.


The Blue Lagoon, an internationally famous destination, is in the geothermal area along the South Coast of Iceland.  A geothermal power station is the major source of employment in the area.  Due to cheap power, Alcoa uses the geothermal power to make aluminum there.  This provides many jobs for the area but is a major concern of environmentalist because of the damage building the dams has caused the island.  Little of the product or profit stays in the country. 

The Blue Lagoon started as treatment for psoriasis patients because the water is very pure and there is no bacteria in the pool. 
It was bought by a doctor who developed it into a major tourist destination.  Getting to dip in the pool requires follows a mandatory procedure.  First you get a wristband, then you find a locker, then you strip down and take a shower, wash hair, apply but do not remove conditioner, and put on swim suit.  Then you step into warm blue water that ranges from comfortably warm to very warm.  Drinks are available at the bar in the lagoon.  You can also get Silicon clay facial goop.  Other amenities are available at various price levels.  We stepped  under a waterfall for a good strong back massage.



Afterwards another shower and we finally got a towel to dry off.  You can then exit through the gift shop where a variety of their products are sold at very high prices.  Some of our group want to return to Iceland just for the lagoon.  We enjoyed it but not as much as the marvels we saw over these days.
                                       
For our final evening, we went to Reykjavik Kitchen for a luscious dinner.  Iceland is noted for its cod, char and lamb and we have enjoyed all three.  They also know how make delicious chocolate chop cookies.  We didn't sample the bagels.
For the last night, we returned to the same hotel in Reykjavik where we started.  Before leaving we enjoyed a wonderful brunch with last chances to have such delicacies as lox marinated in beet juice (yes, it is great).

Of all travels we have done, this one is among the top for visuals.  The sights were amazing and we were lucky.  Our timing worked out so that we went to places just days before they were closed to the public because of the virus.

Our trip home took us to Seattle where we changed from Icelandic Air to Alaskan.  Unlike the airports on the news, this one was empty.  The staff there were warm and friendly.  The plane home was about 1/3 full.  We have returned to a new world where we will be in quarantine for a couple of weeks.

Thank you for traveling with us and stay safe and healthy!

Sunday, 15 March 2020

White Out to Green Skies

The Coronavirus is the main topic here as in the rest of the world.  There have been a proportionately higher number of cases in Iceland than any where else.  We are with people from a half dozen countries, each following what is happening at home.  We all follow what is now standard cleanliness protocol.

The concern for many is how they can get home.  We fly into Seattle and hope we can transfer to Alaska as planned.  There are a few other Californians on the trip.  We have discussed renting a car in Seattle to drive home if necessary and possible.
Meanwhile we are lucky for the distraction of amazingly beautiful scenery, lovely travel companions and a great guide.

Interesting points:

People of the countryside come together to sing in choirs during the long winter.

In the 1500-1800s distance was measured by the number of sheep/calf skin shoe inlays that were worn our during their trek.  These inlays were the main gifts for special occasions.  Everyone wore the same shoe.  Church services were mandatory.  Shoes were removed during services.  You recognized your own shoe by the inlay color.

Cairns marked travel routes, indicating places of danger, places to rest or as a monument.

Until 1986 no beer was allowed so that drank a liquor made from potatoes.  Dried shark is a local delicacy.

Snow, we woke up to a beautiful flake-filled world with a foot of snow on the path out our window.  This snow makes great snowballs.  Too bad my aim is so poor.
This photo, out of the window of the bus, shows the skill of our driver.  I would not have driven the RV in this weather.  This was the good part of the road.
One way bridge means only one car at a time, alterate directions taking turns.  Otherwise, crash, common among tourists.   Saw several drivers stuck in the snow, most tourists who shouldn’t be driving in these snowy conditions.

Jokulsarlon (Glacial) Lagoon National Park was developed in 1093.  Like the rest of the glaciers throughout the world, this one is melting.  Icelanders have deep concern over shrinking glaciers and changing climate as part of their daily lives.

Extreme is too basic a word to describe the beauty of this park (and a lot of other places on our trip).  This area is very popular and the parking lot was overflowing.
There are no roads in the park.  We just learned that as of today this park is closed due to the virus.  We have been so lucky.

The way the peak of the glacier revealed itself to us was cloud cover, then clear viewing, then another cloud.  Beautiful!
The Glacial River had some deep blue hues.

The fine black sand of the beach, feels like tiny grains of salt. It is called the Diamond Beach because of the ice that is all over.


Anna Lee named this  “Golden Gate Bridge in the Snow”


A model posed in a bikini on the wind swept super cold beach.
The night sky cooperated and granted us an opportunity to see a performance of the Northern Lights.   The green ribbons wave along the horizon dimming, reshaping, broadening and glowing.





Thursday, 12 March 2020

LAVA, Waterfalls and Glaciers

The LAVA Center is a fabulous place to learn about the convulsive geological events that formed  Iceland.  The people live with and are prepared for spasms that lead to quakes and plumes.  The museum tour starts with a twenty minute video of eruptions since 1900.   Nature is violent but the photos were beautiful. 

Iceland has thirty volcanic systems, any of which is expected to erupt every 3 - 5 years.   They are a couple of years overdue.   Excellent interactive exhibits demonstrate the action of these eruptions. 




One exhibit featured an artificial earthquake but, having been in more than one real one, we passed.

Hekla is the mountain expected to erupt next, as if one would know what the land will do.
Iceland tops this mantle plume.
Looking out the window of our bus we see a flat landfill made of ash.
The mountain tops of the southeast are flat due to the less severe ice carving of the glaciers.  In other parts of the country mountains are steep due to carving.

The snowfall did not diminish the beauty of Seljalandsfoss, meaning “island, mountain, glacier.”

Plants bind down the black sand that covers the land.  Otherwise the roads would be closed due to blasting sand.

The waterfalls we visit are on private land.  The owners may charge for parking, toilets or have cafe/souvenir shops.
Along our drive we passed caves, some of which are used for storage or even homes.  Some have door and windows at their entrance.

We don’t have a photo but a local artist has created an installation of bra art.  Yes, that is spelled right.

At Skogafoss we viewed the falls and had a lunch break.
The black sand beach of Renisfjana is considered dangerous because of the undertow. 
The hexagonal pillars shot up and the surface was rubbed smooth.
The pebbles on the beach are mostly shades of black, white and grey but a few were in light hues.
A large cave on the beach was a real attraction.
The black sand beach of Renisfjana is considered dangerous because of the undertow.  The hexagonal pillars shot up and the surface was rubbed smooth.


The town of Vik is always prepared for flooding from the geyser.  Attempts to build only near the top of the peak have failed due to human nature doing what it wants.  The church was the highest point in the town and is the evacuation point should the need arise.
The town myth is that Thor lived in the mountains with his goats whom he kept killing with his hammer and who kept returning to life.

Another cave myth is of a seaman who found a seal in a cave.  He skinned the seal and a beautiful young woman appeared.  They lived happily until one day he came home and she was gone.  She had found seal skin and returned to the sea saying she had left seven children in the cave and seven in the sea.

Iceland is a Lutheran Country but no longer has a state church.  It began as a Catholic country in 1000 AD.  When they became Lutheran, Catholics were beheaded.  Some continued to practice in secret at the risk of their lives. 

Paganism continues with the worship of Issir.  This sect is increasing in members.  There is also a continued belief in “hidden people” like elves, fairies and trolls.

Oh and it’s snowing.  Lovely but no Northern Lights

Wednesday, 11 March 2020

Golden Circle

We booked a one-day trip on the Golden Circle.  This was so that Jeff could enjoy a bit more of Iceland. The vehicle we were to ride in was a bit large.  
 Unfortunately, Jeff has had to cut short his trip and return home to prepare to teach his classes on line but we had a little time together.

This section of the blog will be a combo of our one-day trip and the first day of our Northern Lights four-day tour since they overlap.

We started our tour with the Northern Lights Museum, a compensation for not seeing the lights.

The lights originate as electrical charges from the sun.  They begin in the interior of the sun where  hydrogen is converted to helium. On the surface of the sun the helium becomes plasma creating a solar storm. 
The rays of light stretch and break from as little as 8 meters to as large as a kilometer in an hour.  It takes these rays 18 hours to travel from the sun to earth where they are attracted to the magnetic poles and become the lights.  All this said and done and we still await seeing the real thing.

Iceland was under Danish control for about 1000 years.  The Danish king determined all the businesses and took the profits.  In 1944 the country got its independence.  During the decades of the 1950-1960 major changes occurred including  Reykjavik’s growth from a few thousand to over 200,000.      

Iceland has three main sources of income.  Originally, it was farming.  By farming Iceland means animals, pigs, cows, chickens and sheep.  Then fishing became a major industry.  Now it is tourism with the other two as lesser industries.  Some farms now include tourism with rooms to rent.
 
What is now Thingvellir National Park was the location of Parliament from 930-1798.  This was the seat of government, art, sports, social life, and the judicial system.  One form of justice was to drown women and behead men.

The Tectonic plates of North American and EuroAsian meet here with a rift of flat land, known as No Man’s Land,  between them.  This land expands 2 cm per one hundred years.

It is rare to have ice on the lake but we saw some.  We walked down from the edge of the North American Plate to No Mans Land
These Icelandic horses are a unique breed that have been here for 1000 years.  They are small and friendly.  They have five gaits including one so smooth they claim a glass of beer stays level while they run.  If a horse is taken out of the country, it may not return because it might bring in contagious conditions from which these horses have no immunity.


The only other native animal is an arctic fox (sorry, no photo)

Our stop at Fontana Spa was not to enjoy the steaming water to but try some rye bread baked for 24 hours in a hot sand pit. 



Yes, it was delicious with a tinge of sweetness.  We did see people going from steam rooms to steaming spas.
We drove passed several RV parks used as summer homes.

Strokkur Geiser has two eruption cycles, one 76 feet high and the other 140 feet high on a 5-10 minute cycle.  On our first trip there we were advised to keep upwind to avoid odoriferous residue. 

On our second day, the wind was so strong the geyser blew right across the ground.  We chose to stay in the bus on the second day because the wind was fierce.

The wind continued to be freezing cold and fierce as we returned to the Golden Waterfall.  The name comes from a golden rainbow or from the story of a rich man throwing his gold into the White River.  The two main waterfalls are 17 meters high and 20 meters high.  The falls are in shades of blue and white and absolutely gorgeous.   Parts of the falls are frozen at this time of year.


The waterfalls were almost dammed.  A young girl saved them.  She threatened to throw herself into the water but instead walked in the river to Reykjavik where a women met her.  The woman’s son was a lawyer and he presented her argument to Parliament and the river and falls were saved.  That lawyer later became the first President of the country.

About our bus tour group.  We are an international group from the Netherlands, Britain, Belgium, Australia, Canada and more.  We enjoyed a delicious seafood dinner at Iceland Air Hotel in Hruni.  The conversation with our dinner mates was enjoyable.