Today is the Day and You Let the World Slip Through Your Fingers: Kansas City

Our friends Harold and Coral had visited KC last year and said the BBQ was excellent. Well, they probably said better than excellent for it truly is. We tried to get into a downtown restaurant, but the wait on Friday night was way too long. So we headed back toward the RV with Anna Lee fumbling on her cell phone to try to locate a restaurant around us. Literally as we drove up, the cell phone listed L.C. Bar-B-Q, which was right across the highway. It was highly recommended so we decided to try it. Framed on the wall were articles from national newspapers extolling L.C.’s, even Anthony Bourdain raved about it.

Not the best of neighborhoods, there was a policeman leaning inside. We ventured into this small diner and ordered the most amazing bbq beef and chicken takeout we had ever had. We were thrilled that there was so much, so we could look forward to leftovers.

To continue the food portion of this post, next we had lunch at Arthur Bryant’s. Anna Lee was unimpressed by her turkey sandwich but Jerry enjoyed his burnt ends (the well done ends of brisket).

Lastly we went to Jack Stack’s. Sadly, they were out of lamb but Anna Lee’s chicken was delicious and the side of roasted carrots yummy and Jerry’s brisket and ribs truly finger-lickin’. (no photo)

Now for our ranking: #1 L.C.’s (moving to a new location), #2 Jack’s, and #3 Arthur. With more time we would have continued our dedicated research.

We did do more than eat in KC. We took another recommendation from Harold and Coral and went to two special museums that are under one roof. These are the American Jazz Museum and the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum.

The American Jazz Museum is in the 18th and Vines District, the principal Negro district of KC in the 1920s and 30s. Our visit began with a film of the early days in the district. In the days of segregation, this was the social, and later political, center for the black community. Here there were businesses, jobs and educational opportunities. Here was where the churches, clubs, and dance halls were.

In 1920 there were 30,000 blacks in KC. Living conditions were crowded. All blacks went to Lincoln College Preparatory Academy where teachers challenged the students, many of whom went on to attend black colleges. As the residents reached adulthood, they became more aware of the discrimination and resentment grew. The men’s and women’s social clubs became centers of activism.

The Call Newspaper was a source of information and a weapon for change. It told of social events, listed obituaries (not listed in white newspapers) and shared information on action for equality. The stores in town were glad to take Negroes money but not let them try on clothes before purchase. A boycott spread by the newspaper ended that.

With the onset of WWII there were opportunities to demonstrate black support for America, but American did not reciprocate as segregation was the norm.

Jazz was one of the unique sources of pride and solidarity for blacks and it was an entry into mainstream society. Jazz is a combo of American Black sacred and secular music. The 1920s was the Golden Age of Jazz and Kansas City was a hub, all the great performers came here.

One exhibit in the museum is The John Baker Film Collection of soundies. These are played on coin operated machines showing music and dancing without the Hollywood slant of stereotypes.

In The Studio visitors who want a hands on experience into the music can learn and compare harmony, mix, melody at sound stations. Jerry tried his hand at sound mixing without great success.

Special exhibits feature the First Lady of Jazz, Ella Fitzgerald, showing that jazz voices equal instruments

Louis Satchmo Armstrong was the first black featured on the cover of Time Magazine (1949). This was one of his trumpets.

Charlie Parker, The Bird, grew up in KC. He was so influential that when he died in 1955, one commentator said “Bird lives".

Sharing the museum building is the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum providing the history of African Americans in baseball from post-Civil War to late 1950s. In 1863 baseball became national pastime and free blacks played. Right after the Civil War, more blacks joined teams but by 1867 they were excluded from teams with white players. The end of Reconstruction ended the few opportunities for them to play. The exception to this, in 1884, was M. F. Toledo who was the first (and basically the last for eight decades) Negro player in the major leagues. In 1888 the Cuban Giants had black players from outside America. Those players were treated better than American born blacks. When a manager wanted to hire a black player, it was suggested he remove the request rather than having it denied. This was a “Gentleman”s Agreement.”

Black Leagues began in the early 1900s. In 1910 there were sixty teams in the east and south. By 1920 there were six official Negro Leagues. Baseball became one of the largest black owned businesses. Rube Foster, a player and administrator, formed the first successful Negro League in KC. White stadium owners were happy with the Negro Leagues because their games were very popular and large rental fees could be charged.

By the 1920s Black players were celebrities in black communities.

Baseball was an important occasion for members of the black community. Ten thousand people would attend a game. Pastors shortened Sunday services to let people go to the game. Fans dressed up for games. In Kansas City the players also had a dress code, wearing suits and ties to the games. How you presented yourself mattered as did your reputation.

The Kansas City Monarchs won the first Negro League World Series is 1924.

Teams not in leagues barnstormed traveling around to play. They needed to find places where Negroes could stay and eat. This was a typical room that a ball player would have in a "first class" hotel.

A Canadian owner said Negroes were subhuman. The next year he welcomed them as players.

Black celebrities performed at the games. Jesse Owens raced and Lena Horne sang.

Many records were set by black players first. Not credited was Bill Wright who achieved a batting average of .402 in 1939. Instead Ted Williams has the record for being the first to break .400 with his .406 two years later. James “Cool Papa” Bell holds the record for base running and is considered one of the fastest men ever to play the game but was not credited for this achievement.

The Depression cut the number of leagues. Yet, in 1930, the Negro League had the first night game, five years before white leagues.

Special tribute is paid to Satchel Paige, considered by many the best player ever. He was the best paid at the time and drew up to 46,000 fans to a game. This was the depiction of Paige on the mound at the museum.

While Josh Gibson, a power hitter, was called the Black Babe Ruth, Babe Ruth was called the White Josh Gibson.

Finally, Happy Chandler, baseball commissioner, overturned the bar against black players. This led to Branch Rickie of the Brooklyn Dodgers to hire Jackie Robinson as the first recognized major league black player. Robinson started at a farm club in Montreal and later, playing for the Brooklyn Dodgers, won Rookie of the Year in 1947. Next came Larry Doby for the American League Cincinnati Indians. Satchel Paige also played for the Indians but he was already past his great years. By 1959 all teams had black players.

A baseball field with life-size players beckons photographers.