Art and Rita keep us on the go. They have arranged for us to visit
many of their special friends and in each case we have had opportunities
to see NO as few others have. This was a day filled with such
experiences.
Our
first stop was at Sun Oak, home of Dr. Gene Cizak. Among his
responsibilities is head of the Tulane Preservation Project. He and his
late partner Lloyd Sensat, an art teacher, were personally and
professionally committed the culture of NO. Their caring hearts and
talented hands touched several of the historical places we visited.
Before we went into Sun Oak, Mr. Okra drove by clanging his bell. His beautiful vegetables were very tempting.
Gene’s
home is in the Creole, “of the place,” area. It was originally three
shotgun homes (long homes one room wide) but he has combined two of them
into one home. It was built in 1807 by a free woman of color.
Cypress, red pine and brick are the main materials. It was remodeled in
1936 and 1977. Gene and Lloyd expanded the house to include a
sunlight-filled kitchen and eating area.
The flooding
of Katrina stopped three blocks from the home so it was spared damage
but needed to be protected from the looting that sadly occurred
throughout the city. It is filled with an eclectic assortment of
furniture, antiques and art, much made locally and from the nineteenth
and twentieth century.
The
Father Seelos Memorial Garden honors the Priest who is in line for
canonization. Many of the trees in the garden were blown down by the
hurricane.
This is a mahonia or Oregon grape.
These were surprise plantings from a friend who had pineapple guava bushes to spare.
Our
lunch involved another Rita friend. Gloria, a school counselor, and
her husband own the Praline Connection, a small café that you have to
know about to find. We had truly “finger-licken” fried chicken, corn
bread, and dirty rice.
We drove off the tourist route to these unique Steamboat Houses.
With
all this fun, we have not ignored the consequences of Katrina. The
neighborhood known as the Musician’s Center was heavily damaged. Fats
Domino’s home is in this area.
Further
on we drove through the Brad Pitt “Make It Right” project. Pitt has
collected millions of dollars to build one hundred homes with an equal
amount in the works. These homes, whose occupants are primarily of very
low income, were designed by architecture students. They are energy
efficient and unique in design.
Isleanos
Museum and Rita’s friend Bill Hiland were next on our tour. This is a
museum complex on the history of early settlers from the Spanish Canary
Islands. Their American history and contributions are little known
beyond their own community. Their major contribution, in addition to
developing the area, was the introduction of the sugar industry which
became the primary product of Louisiana. They also settled in San
Antonio, Cuba and Venezuela.
We began our tour in the
main house which is a replica of the one destroyed by Katrina. Photos
show the house before and after the hurricane. Items on display include a
Canary Island flag and traditional costumes.
The Ducros Museum has a temporary exhibit on duck decoys.
Bill
showed us a decorated cane on display. Henry Rodriguez, Jr., parish
president, used this cane to express his opinions of President George W.
Bush and the government’s help after Katrina. Needless to say, the
words used will not be printed in a G-rated blog.
The Buckets of Blood Bar dates back to the 1920s. Fats Domino and Louis Armstrong were among the musicians who performed here.
At the Estopinal House we saw bousillage, the mixture of mud, moss and animal hair used for building.
The
Cresap-Caservta House, built in 1910 from lumber salvaged from a slave
house and damaged in Katrina, will be left as it is to show what the
hurricane did to homes. Bill indicates the water level of the flood.
After
the museum, we drove to the canal where the oyster boats unload their
catch. This one has been part of a family business since the Civil
War. Samples were available.
Near
the oyster canal and at various other places in the city, New Orleans
has a series of walls intended to keep out the flood waters.
The
effect of Katrina are not hard to see as you drive through the area, it
is obvious. These trees were subject to the salt water that came
ashore with a vengeance.
We then took a brief ferry ride on our way back to the campground where oysters were part of our light hors d’oeuvres.
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